Andalucía – Córdoba

Apologies, this post should have been written and published back in February.

The city of Córdoba is beautiful and historically fascinating, and we simply loved it. With so much to see and do, it rivals other cities in Andalucía.

Córdoba started out as a very important Roman city built on the only major navigable river in Spain then became one of the main Islamic centers during the Middle Ages. (Let’s consider the Middle Ages ranging from the fall of Rome in 476 to the beginning of the Renaissance in the 14th century.) While the rest of Europe was ignoring the advancements of its predecessors and seeing the Catholic Church become the largest influential power, the Islamic world was growing in size and power in the Middle East and North Africa and was fostering vibrant intellectual and cultural life. The Moors reached southern Spain in the early 8th century, and Córdoba quickly became an important Islamic settlement for at least the next 500 years. By the year 1,000, Córdoba was the largest and likely most cultured city in all of Europe, with scholars, poets, philosophers, scientists and inventors all making their home there. Additionally, under Islamic rule, Muslims, Christians and Jews all coexisted in Córdoba relatively peacefully, with each culture able to practice their beliefs without persecution. Can you just imagine how much culture and history there is to see here?! In fact, Córdoba has four UNESCO World Heritage Sites, more than any other city in the world. Let’s check them out…

1 – La Mesquita

If for no other reason, it’s worth visiting Córdoba simply to visit the stunning La Mesquita (the “Great Mosque”). This unique mosque was originally built back around 785 and was once one of the biggest mosques in the world. When Córdoba was conquered by King Ferdinand III in 1236, the mosque was converted to a Catholic cathedral. Throughout its entire existence, though, La Mesquita saw continual expansions and alterations, which makes it such a fascinating place to see today. Imagine an amazing Renaissance and Gothic-style cathedral literally sitting in the center of a columned prayer hall with ornate carved ceilings and Byzantine mosaics. It’s really impossible to describe and even depict in photos. It’s simply breathtaking, and you just have to see if for yourself! 

2 – Historic Center of Córdoba

The second UNESCO site is actually the entire historic center of the city surrounding the Great Mosque. The historic center is just over 80 hectares (or .3 square miles) and contains a variety of sites showcasing Córdoba’s unique and rich cultural history:

Alcazar de Los Reyes Cristianos 

Like the Great Mosque, this palace-fortress (or “Castle of the Christian Monarchs”)  was built during the Islamic rule over previous fortress remains, then rebuilt again during Christian rule. I think it’s interesting to be called the Castle of the Christian Monarchs, when Ferdinand and Isabella lived and reigned from there for only eight years. Throughout the centuries, this site would include a variety of functions including military fortress, royal residence, baths, libraries, offices, prisons, and gardens. It has truly been a center for political, economic and religious power in Córdoba. This site also marks where Christopher Columbus first had an audience with Ferdinand and Isabella to gain support for his western expedition to Asia. 

The Jewish Quarter

We’ve easily seen over 100 churches throughout our journeys. It’s rare enough to find an old synagogue, so I thought it was quite exciting to find so much here in this old neighborhood of narrow streets. The synagogue in Córdoba was built in 1315, and it is only one of three medieval synagogues remaining in Spain today. In 1492, the Jews were forced to either convert to Catholicism or flee, and most chose the latter. Afterwards, the synagogue served as a hospital, then a community center, chapel and even a school. Nearby is Casa de Sefarad, a private museum of Jewish culture and history. I finally learned where the term Sephardic Jew comes from – “Sefarad” is the Hebrew word for Spain! Sephardic Jews are descendants of Jews who lived in Spain or Portugal or even North Africa, and Maimonides was arguably one of the most famous. He was a rabbi, philosopher and physician who was amazingly so far ahead of his time. There is now a Maimonides Square to honor him. 

3 – The Festival of Patios

Being an event, the Festival of Patios is actually designated as an “intangible” UNESCO site. Since 1921, it takes place each year in the first half of May. So while we did not get to experience it in February, I would love to see it someday. To understand… historically, because of the very hot, dry climate, Roman, Muslim, then Spanish homes in this area were designed around inner courtyards for light and places to collect rainwater. These courtyards also became the perfect place for congregating, and thus, landscaping became important for aesthetics. Now, I do love flowers, so I just loved the characteristic potted flowers that adorn so many streets and buildings in Córdoba. Likely the most photographed street in the whole city is Callejón de las Flores, a typical narrow and cobbled alley in between whitewashed homes that is completely decked out in bright flowers. This, we got to see. To see even better photos and the extent of the Festival of Patios, visit here and here! 

4 – The Medina Azahara

The final UNESCO site is a fortified palace-city we didn’t see because it sits about five miles outside of town. Built in the 10th century by the Muslim ruler of the time, it is largely in ruins today. Supposedly, he built this new city as a sign of his power and superiority. Much of its remains were unearthed in 1911 and have been restored since. If you’re intrigued, you can learn more here. 😉

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In addition to the special UNESCO Heritage Sites, Córdoba is just a lovely, livable city. We enjoyed just strolling around, feeling the good vibe, and eating some great meals. In writing this post, I think I’ve decided that Córdoba could be my favorite city that we visited this winter. Hard to decide, though, as all of Andalucía is wonderful!

Only one more city in Spain to write about…!