The long haul to Sicily

This time we left in the dark. 4:40am to be exact. Our goal was to make the 84 nm journey from Roccella Ionica to Catania, Sicily before dark. This was our last long haul before we reach our final destination in Licata for the winter. By the way, the reason we’ve had so many long hauls is due to the fact that marinas / anchorages are far and few between along the eastern and southern coasts of Italy.

This was also the most adventurous undertaking for just the two of us. It was our longest passage, requiring speed all the way to arrive before dark, with expectations of wind and swell across large stretches of open sea. We had to include some night time sailing and this too was new for just the two of us. We had hoped to do this with Cuala and Olivier, but that did not work out.

At this point, we felt used to sailing in the dark. Life lines installed, live vests on, clipped in whenever on deck, night vision ready, blankets*, coffee. Calm marina, beautiful clear starry night, and an easy departure. 

For what seemed like the first time, we had great 15 knot wind from behind. This we expected and were thrilled to have. We also, however, had large swell (2+ meters), which was not expected and we were not thrilled to have. However, the swell was also coming from behind so felt totally different as it carried us forward rather than slammed on our nose. 

Now, anyone who knows me well knows that I am seriously not a morning person. So I have seen very few sunrises in my time. This one was well worth it. There is something magical about seeing the dawn of a new day. And, seeing the brightening sky juxtaposed against the bright stars is amazing. 

Conor admitted to feeling much more relaxed after daybreak. He could then see the swell, and of course, it was much easier moving around the boat. Once it was light, we unfurled the jib and the main sail came up later. We appreciated the extra power for the whole day and even reached speeds of up to 9.3 knots. (We kept both engines on to make sure we made the crossing in time.) 

Come mid-morning, we were treated to the sighting of a pod of porpoises. Some swam right alongside the boat and they jumped like crazy. This was definitely the most exciting sea life sighting we’ve had to date. It was also neat to see several sea turtles float by during the day. (Sorry I don’t have any photos – impossible to capture!)

With such a long day at sea, there was plenty of time to think. I find that being out at sea where you’re surrounded by nothing but space really clears the mind. I was soaking in the feel of the sun on my face, cool wind in my hair, the gentle rolling of the boat, and the power of the sea; the sounds of the swell splashing, the occasional flap of the jib, and our flags flying in wind; and the sights of the beautiful, mountainous Italian landscape, the bright blue sky with wispy clouds, the expanse of the sea, and the reflection of sunlight on the water. It was a peaceful day with comforting camaraderie even as we’d get lost in our own thoughts, music, or books. I was so thankful for the beauty of earth and was humbled thinking of our little home bobbing there in the wide open sea. I’m not a religious person in practice, but I’ve always felt spiritually close to God, especially in nature. Surrounded by it, I was sending my prayers of extreme gratitude for life and this amazing experience. I wish I could share it with all those I hold dear.  

As we neared Catania, Conor enjoyed crossing through another shipping channel. Not really. But once in the clear, we landed in Catania at Circolo Nautico NIC around 5:15pm. We’d thankfully made it in 12 1/2 hours and before dark. 

Circolo Nautico NIC is more of a club than a marina that focuses on the sport of sailing. It was fine to stay a couple nights, and we had the chance to explore Catania. Catania is supposed to be the industrial, logistical, and commercial center of Sicily and has the largest airport in Southern Italy. It suffered a big earthquake in 1693 and had many beautiful baroque buildings built after. These buildings are now sadly blackened and most other buildings are covered in a lot of graffiti. It was a large, dirty, somewhat gritty city, but had a lot to offer and much vibrancy. It seemed a very livable city. We enjoyed seeing all the grand buildings, the various beautiful piazzas, wide pedestrian streets (lots of great shopping if you’re a shopper), and large central garden (park). Much life can also be found around their well-known, colorful fish market where you can find endless vendors of fish, meats, cheeses, produce, and restaurants. 

Another thing we’ve discovered in Italy that is different from other places we were this summer is that instead of having separate bars, gelaterias, bakeries, and coffee shops, they tend to have many places that combine all of the above. A great feature so everyone is happy! Their “bars” are cafes. (And caffè is a coffee.) And the bars tend to be open most of the day, whereas everything else in Italy (in the towns we’ve been in) close down for a siesta in the afternoons – say anywhere from 1:30-5pm. Something for Americans to get used to!

If you research what to do in Catania, what mostly comes up is 1) enjoy the food, and 2) anything to do with Mt Etna. Mt Etna is an active volcano about an hour drive north of the city. It looms greatly over the landscape in all directions. Interestingly, you’ll see all kinds of black basalt rock used in the area for streets and buildings. We didn’t have a chance to visit or hike the volcano, but that’s for next time! 

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* Side note: IKEA blankets are great! We purchased the inexpensive, thin, gray fleece blankets during the pandemic so we could continue to sit outside and eat with friends year-round. We brought them with us, and so far they have been very handy to have on the boat – they are super thin (so don’t take up much space), yet super warm.